What better way to celebrate a milestone birthday than with a few days in the heart of France’s Champagne region?

That’s exactly what seven of us did when we headed to Épernay for a girls’ getaway filled with vineyard views, historic champagne houses, leisurely lunches and, naturally, plenty of champagne. Nestled among rolling vineyards and picturesque villages, Épernay offers the perfect blend of elegance, history and indulgence. Whether you’re a dedicated champagne enthusiast or simply looking for a memorable European escape, this corner of northeastern France has a way of making every moment feel special.

Over six days, we explored world-famous maisons, discovered family-run producers, wandered through historic towns and sampled some exceptional champagnes along the way. Here’s how our sparkling adventure unfolded.

Day 1: From Edinburgh to the Heart of Champagne

Our group travelled from both Glasgow and Edinburgh, making Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport the perfect meeting point. Fortunately, we found flights that landed within ten minutes of one another, meaning nobody had a long wait before our adventure began.

There are a couple of ways to reach Épernay from Paris. The train runs directly from Charles de Gaulle Airport and takes between 90 minutes and two hours, depending on the service. However, with seven of us travelling together, a pre-booked transfer worked out to be more cost-effective and far more convenient.

As we left the airport behind, the scenery gradually transformed from busy suburbs to open countryside, rolling farmland and, eventually, the vineyards that make this region world famous. Watching the landscape change through the window felt like the perfect introduction to Champagne.

We arrived in Épernay during the afternoon and settled into our beautiful townhouse, located in a quiet residential area within easy walking distance of the town centre. As a welcome surprise, our host had left us a bottle of champagne waiting for us. It would have been rude not to enjoy it.

After a celebratory toast and a chance to unpack, we headed out for the birthday dinner. Although it was only the beginning of the season and the town was relatively quiet, there was still a pleasant buzz in the air. Elegant buildings lined the streets and our first glimpse of the famous Avenue de Champagne did not disappoint. The grand champagne houses, many resembling stately mansions rather than wineries, hinted at the history and prestige that awaited us over the coming days.

Following a wonderful meal and a few more glasses of champagne, we returned to the apartment. With an early start behind us and plenty more adventures ahead, an early night seemed like the sensible option.

Day 2: Exploring the Avenue de Champagne

After a good night’s sleep, we started the day with a visit to the local market to stock up on pastries, cheeses and charcuterie. It was the perfect continental breakfast and an ideal way to prepare for a day dedicated to champagne.

Our morning began with a stroll through Épernay’s charming streets before making our way to the Avenue de Champagne. We had hoped to take a ride on the town’s hot air balloon for a bird’s-eye view of the vineyards, but unfortunately the weather had other ideas. High winds and rain meant it remained grounded throughout our stay.

The Avenue de Champagne is one of the most prestigious streets in the wine world. Beneath its elegant facades lie more than 100 kilometres of cellars where millions of bottles quietly mature. Walking along the avenue, it’s difficult not to be impressed by the scale and history hidden below ground.

Our first stop was Perrier-Jouët, renowned for its Art Nouveau heritage and beautifully refined champagnes. The experience felt intimate and elegant, focusing not only on the wines themselves but also on the artistry and craftsmanship behind the brand.

Later, we visited No.19 which is owned by the Syndicat Général des Vignerons, and is a stylish wine bar showcasing champagnes from smaller growers and cooperatives across the region. A guided tasting introduced us to a range of excellent wines that offered a different perspective from the major houses.

As we continued along the avenue, we quickly learned the importance of booking ahead. Several houses were still operating limited hours at the start of the season, while Moët & Chandon was fully booked. A valuable lesson for future visitors.

Lunch was enjoyed at Le Progrès, where croque monsieur and champagne proved to be an unexpectedly perfect pairing. After all, when in France…

By the end of the afternoon, we had begun to appreciate that every champagne house tells its own story. Some focus on heritage, others on innovation, but each contributes something unique to the region’s identity.

Day 3: Reims – History, Cathedrals and Champagne

Our day began with a short taxi ride to the nearby village of Aÿ. We had planned to visit Champagne Collet, only to discover it was closed. Fortunately, Champagne Ayala, owned by Bollinger, welcomed us in for a tasting before we boarded the train to Reims.

The journey takes little more than half an hour, making Reims an easy and worthwhile day trip from Épernay.

Often considered the unofficial capital of Champagne, Reims combines centuries of history with some of the region’s most famous producers. Our first stop was the magnificent Reims Cathedral, where generations of French kings were crowned. Its soaring Gothic architecture and remarkable stained-glass windows made it one of the most impressive cultural highlights of the trip.

The afternoon was devoted to champagne.

We started at Champagne Pol Couronne, a boutique producer located just steps from the cathedral. A tasting of five champagnes provided an excellent introduction to Reims’ wine scene before we made the walk to Veuve Clicquot.

Famous for its pioneering history and distinctive style, Veuve Clicquot offered one of the most fascinating cellar tours of the trip. Descending into the vast chalk cellars beneath the city provided a glimpse into the scale of production and the meticulous care that goes into every bottle.

Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch at the maison’s café before continuing on to Pommery. If Veuve Clicquot impressed us with its history, Pommery captivated us with its atmosphere. The self-guided tour led us through spectacular underground galleries where contemporary art and champagne heritage combine to create a truly memorable experience.

By the time we returned to Épernay that evening, laden with a few carefully chosen bottles, none of us had the energy for a restaurant. Pizza and champagne back at the apartment proved to be the perfect ending to another exceptional day.

Day 4: Discovering the Smaller Producers

One of the highlights of the entire trip was our excursion with My Vintage Tour Company.

Travelling through the vineyards in a beautifully restored vintage Renault minibus named Marcel, we left the famous maisons behind and explored a more personal side of Champagne.

The weather may not have been on our side, but the views certainly were. Rolling vineyards stretched across the hillsides in every direction, while our guide shared fascinating insights into the region’s history, grape-growing traditions and winemaking practices.

Our first stop was Champagne Le Gallais, chosen by the birthday girl herself. Set against the backdrop of the Château de Boursault (built by Madame Cliquot) and overlooking the Marne Valley, the tasting room offered some of the most spectacular views of the entire trip. Sampling their champagnes while gazing across a UNESCO-listed landscape was an unforgettable experience.

Next came Champagne Vollereaux, a sixth-generation family producer where we enjoyed a guided tour and tasting. Compared to the grand scale of the larger houses, everything here felt more intimate and traditional.

Lunch was originally planned as a vineyard picnic, but the weather had other plans. Instead, we enjoyed a wonderful spread of fresh bread, cheeses and charcuterie inside the property’s beautifully restored former pressing room. The cosy atmosphere made it feel even more special.

Our final visit was to Champagne Jean-Milan, another family-run producer where tradition remains at the heart of the operation. Walking through the property felt almost like stepping into a living museum, providing a fascinating contrast to some of the modern visitor experiences we had encountered elsewhere.

By the time we returned to Épernay, the weather had deteriorated further, forcing us to abandon plans for sunset drinks overlooking the vineyards. It was disappointing, but after a day like that, nobody could complain.

Day 5: Hautvillers – The Birthplace of Champagne

For our final full day, we travelled to the picturesque village of Hautvillers, often referred to as the birthplace of Champagne.

Just ten minutes from Épernay by taxi, the village sits high above the surrounding vineyards and offers some of the most beautiful scenery in the region.

Our first stop was the Abbey of Hautvillers, where Dom Pérignon lived and is buried. While many of the legends surrounding him have become intertwined with champagne folklore, his influence on the region remains undeniable.

Seeking shelter from another spell of rain, we made our way to Champagne J.M. Gobillard for our first tasting of the day. It turned out to be a nostalgic visit, as I realised this was the very champagne we had served at our wedding sixteen years earlier.

As the weather briefly improved, we explored the village’s narrow streets and independent champagne houses. It was during this wander that we stumbled upon what would become our collective favourite producer of the entire trip: Champagne Marion-Bosser.

This small, family-run maison is operated by generations of women and immediately stood out for its warmth and authenticity. We were welcomed by Elodie and her mother, who guided us through a tasting while sharing the family’s story and traditions.

The experience felt personal, genuine and refreshingly uncommercial. Unsurprisingly, we ended up shipping several bottles home.

Lunch followed at Café d’Hautvillers, where we enjoyed a leisurely meal accompanied by yet more champagne. It seemed only fitting.

Our final tasting took place at Champagne G. Tribaut, located at the edge of the village with sweeping views across the vineyards. Although the rain once again prevented us from sitting outside, the modern tasting room provided a comfortable setting in which to savour our final glasses.

The smaller producers we visited throughout the day offered a wonderful contrast to the grand maisons. Their hospitality, passion and sense of tradition left a lasting impression and reminded us that some of the most memorable experiences often come from the places you discover by chance.

Back in Épernay, we rounded off the trip with a few final drinks and a celebratory dinner at Le Cave à Champagne before raising one last toast to the birthday girl.

Day 6: Homeward Bound

As with all great trips, eventually it was time to head home.

After one final visit to the market and a leisurely breakfast, we packed our suitcases—noticeably heavier than when we arrived—and began the journey back to Edinburgh.

Our pre-booked transfer once again made the return journey simple and stress-free. Admittedly, after five days of champagne tastings, we were all feeling slightly weary, but in the best possible way.

Looking back across the week, it was difficult to choose a favourite moment. From the grandeur of the famous houses to the warmth of the family-run producers, every day had offered something different.

Top Tips for Visiting Épernay

• Book tastings and tours well in advance, especially at the major champagne houses.
• Combine visits to famous maisons with smaller independent producers for a more complete experience.
• Set aside time for a day trip to Reims.
• Allow yourself time to slow down and savour the experience rather than rushing between tastings.
• Consider a vineyard tour to gain a deeper understanding of the region and its wines.
• Don’t underestimate how much walking is involved—comfortable shoes are essential.

Final Thoughts

Épernay and the surrounding Champagne region offer so much more than world-famous sparkling wine, although that alone would be reason enough to visit.

This is a destination where history, craftsmanship, culture and breathtaking landscapes come together effortlessly. Whether you’re exploring centuries-old cellars beneath Reims, admiring vineyard views from Hautvillers or sharing stories over a long lunch with friends, there is something undeniably special about spending time here.

What made this trip truly memorable wasn’t just the champagne. It was the laughter, the unexpected discoveries, the beautiful scenery and the opportunity to celebrate a milestone birthday with great friends.

And while the famous quote often attributed to Dom Pérignon—”Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!”—is almost certainly more legend than fact, after spending six days in Champagne, it’s easy to understand why the story has endured.

Every future glass of champagne will now come with memories of the vineyards where it all began.