Becoming Tourists in Our Own City
One evening, many moons ago, over far too many drinks, my friend and I realised there were still plenty of attractions in our own city that we had never properly explored. Naturally, we decided to create a list. Although we’re both originally from Belfast and now live elsewhere, we still visit home regularly (it will always be home). Like many locals, we’d often left the tourist hotspots to visitors while overlooking them ourselves.
At the start of the year, we decided to change that. First on our list was the Crumlin Road Gaol, one of Belfast’s most iconic historic landmarks.
Our adventure started with us having to make our way across the city to the Crumlin Road. The bus numbers and routes have changed since our younger days, so that was our first challenge. Thankfully, we managed it successfully. For once, we didn’t get lost, get on the wrong bus, or end up travelling in the wrong direction!
If you’re planning a visit, the Translink Metro 57, 12B and 12C buses all run from the city centre. These buses depart regularly from Donegall Square West (beside City Hall) or Chichester Street and drop you either round the corner from or directly outside the prison in about 10 minutes.
First Impressions of Crumlin Road Gaol
It was a wet, grey, miserable day when we rocked up to the prison, which actually added a little atmosphere to the whole visit in a slightly eerie, spooky way.
We had booked onto the guided tour, which is slightly longer than the self-guided option but was definitely the right choice. It quickly became clear that this was far more than just a walk through an old prison. The experience offered a fascinating insight into more than 150 years of Belfast’s history.
Opened in 1846, the prison housed men, women and children throughout its operational life and witnessed some of the most significant periods in Northern Ireland’s history. Walking through the cold stone corridors and peering into the cells gave a real sense of what life must have been like for those imprisoned there. Standing inside one of the cells, it was impossible not to reflect on how different daily life must have been for those held within its walls.
Bringing History to Life
One of the most memorable parts of the tour was hearing the stories behind some of the prison’s former inmates. Our guide brought the history to life, sharing accounts that ranged from ordinary criminals to political prisoners, highlighting how the prison evolved through different eras.
The prison was also the site of the last hanging in Northern Ireland, and indeed on the island of Ireland, in 1961. Visitors can see the condemned man’s cell and learn about what happened during a prisoner’s final hours. This section of the tour comes with a warning, and you can choose to bypass the room if you find the subject matter uncomfortable.
The Underground Tunnel
The underground tunnel connecting the prison to the old courthouse across the road was another fascinating feature of the tour. Standing in the tunnel, it was easy to imagine prisoners making that final journey between court and prison, adding another layer of atmosphere to the experience.
Unfortunately, visitors can’t currently walk all the way through to the courthouse, so you don’t get to experience the full journey. Even so, the tunnel remains one of the most memorable parts of the tour.
Exploring the Prison Grounds
The guided tour finishes in the exercise yard, where prisoners were allowed outside for exercise and fresh air once each day. Along the outer perimeter wall in the exercise yard, are the graves of prisoners who were executed at the prison and are buried in unmarked, unconsecrated graves. They serve as a harrowing reminder of what took place within the prison’s walls.
As you walk around the outside of the building, you pass a collection of vehicles and helicopters that were used over the years to transport prisoners between Crumlin Road Gaol and the prisons where they would ultimately serve their sentences. Also located in the corner of the prison yard is the Matron’s House. I found it surprisingly small and interesting to see how the prison matron lived on site, separate from the main prison building.
Why the Guided Tour Is Worth It
What impressed me most was how balanced and informative the tour was. Rather than focusing on sensational stories, it explored the wider social and political history surrounding the prison, helping visitors understand its place in Belfast’s past.
The knowledgeable guide added context and detail that I would almost certainly have missed on a self-guided visit.
Final Thoughts
By the end of the visit, I was left wondering why it had taken me so long to go. Sometimes we overlook the attractions closest to home, assuming we’ll get around to them eventually. Yet exploring your own city can be just as rewarding as travelling somewhere new.
Our visit to Crumlin Road Gaol was an excellent start to our mission of ticking off Belfast’s tourist attractions, and it has definitely encouraged us to continue discovering more of the city’s history and culture. It was great to see plenty of locals on the tour alongside visitors, proving that you don’t need to be a tourist to enjoy it.
If you’re a local who has never visited, I’d highly recommend taking the guided tour. You might be surprised by how much you learn about the city you call home.