Distance: 15.75 miles (12 miles to The Shore)
Time: 5.5 hours walking time
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Start Point: Balerno High School
Finish Point: The Shore, Leith (or Newhaven if you’re feeling energetic!)
The Water of Leith Walkway has been on my walking list for years. Following Edinburgh’s longest river from Balerno all the way to The Shore in Leith, it’s one of those routes that somehow manages to feel both rural and urban at the same time.
A friend and I decided to tackle the route as part of our training for a longer charity walk later this summer. On paper, the official route is around 12 miles, but as is often the case with our adventures, we ended up adding a few extra miles along the way.
Balerno to Colinton: Earning Lunch
We started on a sunny spring morning from Balerno, where the walkway begins beside the High School. It didn’t take long for the city to feel far away. The river winds through woodland and open green spaces, with birdsong replacing traffic noise and the Pentland Hills never too far from view.
For a walk that crosses Edinburgh from one side to the other, the opening section feels surprisingly rural.
By the time we reached Colinton, we’d worked up an appetite and stopped at the historic Spylaw Inn for an early lunch. We tried to keep lunch sensible, mainly because we’d already earmarked several other food stops along the route. Walking may have been the official purpose of the day, but snacks were never far from our minds.
After refilling water bottles and giving our legs a brief rest, it was time to continue.
Through the Green Heart of Edinburgh
Refuelled and ready to continue, we followed the river through the leafy corridors that make the Water of Leith such a special urban walk. The path carried us past former mill buildings, beneath mature trees, over viaducts and through a succession of quiet neighbourhoods.
It’s not easy to get lost on this walk, except at one crucial point where the Water of Leith crosses the Union Canal. Suddenly you’re presented with several path options and a surprising amount of confidence that you know which one is correct. We did not know which one was correct.
A welcome coffee stop awaited at the Four Square Park Café within Saughton Park and Gardens. I hadn’t visited since the walled garden was restored and I’ve clearly been missing out. It’s a lovely spot to sit for a while and recharge. The café provided exactly what was needed: coffee, cake and a chance to rest tired legs.
From there, the route continued downstream towards some of its most famous landmarks. We passed the Gallery of Modern Art and one of the Anthony Gormley statues dotted along the route before reaching Dean Village, which was as beautiful as ever, its historic buildings reflected in the water below, while Stockbridge buzzed with life as we emerged from the relative tranquillity of the riverbank.
Stockbridge Treats and the Final Push
By the time we reached Stockbridge there was only one sensible course of action: gelato. A stop at Joelato had been discussed long before we’d even laced up our walking boots. It was one of those moments that perfectly sums up the Water of Leith Walkway: within a few miles you’ve travelled from woodland paths to one of Edinburgh’s liveliest neighbourhoods.
With renewed energy, we pressed on towards Leith. As we approached Leith, the scenery gradually shifted once again. The river twisted between houses and warehouses before finally opening out towards the waterfront.
Reaching The Shore
The Shore marks the official end of the Water of Leith Walkway. After spending the day following the river from woodland paths and quiet villages, seeing it finally open out at The Shore felt surprisingly emotional. There’s something very satisfying about tracing a river from one end of a city to the other.
To celebrate completing the route, we continued our walk to Commercial Quay, where we enjoyed a well-earned glass of wine at Lost in Leith, raising a toast to one of Edinburgh’s finest walks. Who am I kidding? We’d earned a couple of glasses of wine by that point.
Bonus Miles to Newhaven
Although the official walk was complete, the day wasn’t over. We continued along the waterfront towards Newhaven, adding a few extra miles to the adventure.
The perfect ending came at The Fishmarket, where scampi and chips overlooking the harbour provided a fitting finale to a day spent following water all the way across the city.
Sadly, we then had to drag ourselves the last 1.5 miles back home, this was hard with a stomach full of food and wine! But we did it… slowly!
Final Thoughts
In total, our day covered 15.75 miles and around 5½ hours of walking. What makes the Water of Leith Walkway so memorable is the variety it packs into a single route. From the rural landscapes of Balerno to the historic charm of Dean Village, the energy of Stockbridge and the waterfront atmosphere of Leith, it offers a completely different perspective on Edinburgh.
And if you’re tempted to continue beyond The Shore, Newhaven provides the perfect excuse for one final reward before heading home. Trust me, fish and chips taste even better after 15 miles of walking.
